Just one shot

From the moment Austin and I set out we knew we only had a single shot at getting to Jordan. As you folks know from older blogs the political situation in the Middle East has been even more troublesome than during my parents trip. I certainly have chosen the most inappropriate time to visit the region; the fallout for the Iraq War, the Syrian Uprising and the Arab Spring were already issues before Austin pulled out of the driveway.

During the weeks we trundled happily south and eastwards Israel and Egypt fell out seriously as the former shot three Egyptian soldiers at the border. As Austin and I began a tour of Cypriot garages the Turkish prime minister Recep Tayip Erdogan, who was angered by Israels attack on shipping visited the new Post-Arab Spring regime in Egypt and as a result, for the time being the chances of crossing from Egypt into Israel, and ultimately Jordan, were scuppered. This week has seen Lebanon make it's formal bid at the UN to be recognized as a country which has has upset the Israelis no end.

But ultimately what stopped us from going any further was the troubles between Northern (Turkish) Cyprus and (Southern) Cyprus. In 1974 Turkey sent it's troops onto Cypriot soil after a Greek backed coup (The Greek Junta had taken power in Athens the year that mum and dad passed through, 1967). The fallout is still deeply felt through the island and as a result Northern Cyprus state is only recognized by the Turkish government. So technically Austin and I had entered through an illegal port and as a consequence would have to exit through that same point. We could not in any shape or form leave Cyprus and head to Israel, nor could I leave Austin and take a passenger ferry or fly. We would have to leave and return to the north. 

Once there we couldn't travel to anywhere but back to Turkey. And once there we could only exit back into Greece (or Hungry or Armenia, or Georgia). 

Sorry if it's complicated, but it took weeks of searching, calling and talking to people to get all this information. Eventually when the last email came in to say that in no uncertain terms could Austin and I leave Cyprus by any other means than back into the north, it was time to make some decisions. And to be honest these issues have been ongoing for the last fifty years, since Dad and Mum were here, there were very unlikely to change in the next month (especially with Tony Blair sticking his beak in) so sadly Austin and I have decided to return home to the UK and get on with the hard bit- writing the book. 

Thanks for all the support and love from everyone. 

The blogs will continue so stay tuned in and please stay in touch.

Have a good week folks

And again soz if there are any typos.

Cheers Matt

Chameleon Road- Cyprus

If you want an exercise in red tape and inefficacy then take the ferry from mainland Turkey to Northern (Turkish) Cyprus. Leaving Tascu on the southern coast of Turkey the plan was to take the overnight ferry to Cyprus and from there tackle the issue of getting to Jordan from another angle.

I’ll save you the details but here’s the facts- a five hour trip became a 15 hour marathon. Sailing was at 24:00 but we eventually set off at 3:30. I had to visit and hand over cash to a total of twelve different officials before Austin and I could be on our way. By the time we pulled out of the car park and on the disputed soil of Northern Cyprus we were both going bonkers in the heat.

 

Still there were consolations, Nic was coming out to spend 10 days with me and I was really looking forward to it. Originally I should have already tackled Jordan and she was to meet me on the way back. From Cyprus we planned to take a leisurely drive back up to Istanbul together. But timing wasn’t the only issue; Austin had something to say too.

Austin for the most part has been good as gold. Like me he has had a few sniffles and coughs and not everything works but something about Cyprus did not agree with him from the moment we arrived. For almost the whole of the first week Nic was here Austin was in one garage or another. They’d get one thing fixed and something else would go wrong. In the end he had a new dynamo, a new coil, some new wiring and new points put in.

Eventually Austin limped out of the garage and the three of us headed out along the Karpaz Peninsular for a little R and R. The wilds of Karpaz are famous throughout the island and we were looking forward to the long three hour drive down to the point. Nic had a drive of Austin and for the first time I was able to sit back and be a passenger. The sun bleached world of Northern Cyprus drifted passed as the coastline dipped in and out of the ocean, each time it left a beautiful azure cove. We spent a couple of days swimming and driving about dusty trails finding wild donkeys, chameleons and little owls. Not to mention turtles (if you want to know more about these wonderful creatures have a look at Nic's Zoology Blog).

Eventually it was time to head south on the next step of the mission. As I hadn't had any luck getting into Syria the only other choice was to attempt to take the ferry from (Southern) Cyprus to Israel and tackle Jordan from there. For those of you who aren't aware Northern Cyprus and Cyprus don't get on, in fact the UN had to step in and now there is a permanent collection of Blue-and-Whites stationed on the buffer zone that runs the length of the island.

Crossing from the North into the South was supposed to be easy, in reality the Cypriots pulled us aside and went through the paperwork and car with a fine tooth comb. An hour later not only had they driven me nearly insane but they gave us a parting gift- Austin and I could ONLY leave the island by returning to the North and exiting back into Turkey. If true then we were in a whole heap of trouble.

We had been invited to stay with Russell and his lovely wife Jane (and their friends Paul and Karen) at their place. We had meet them up in the north when they jumped in and gave Austin a bump start when he was having one of his Cyprus wobbles. They adopted us; in fact they were so kind and generous that I even began to put weight on again.

For the first time in ages I was forced to relax and stay still. Austin was working fine, we had sent out a few emails trying to confirm the next step and while I waited for the replies it was time to digest another delicious fish meze while floating around their pool in the sun....(to be cont.)

There's a new Cyprus gallery over at the Facebook page.
Have a good week folks
And again soz if there are any typos.
Cheers Matt

Problems

this week has seen the closing of yet more borders across the Middle East. This week has seen Isreal bomb Gaza in return for attacks in the south, the world has called for Assad to go quietly and end his reign in Syria and this morning rebel troops have been all but knocking on Gaddafi's front door. things are very fluid as the Arab Spring has lengthened into the Arab Summer.

The original route would pass through Turkey south through Syria and on to Jordan. But just as my trip was building momentum and the Arab Spring began Syria’s answer to the calls for a new government was further repression and violence.

Plan A
Take a look at the map. The route into Jordan from the north involves passage through Iraq or Syria.


The Foreign Office reports on-


Syria-We advise against all travel to the Syrian Arab Republic. British nationals in Syria should leave now by commercial means whilst these are still available.


And for the record Iraq.-We advise against all travel to Baghdad and surrounding area, and to the provinces of Basra, Maysan, Al Anbar, Salah Ad Din, Diyala, Wasit, Babil, Ninawa and At-Tamim (At-Tamim is often referred to as "Kirkuk Province").

Plan B
Jordan’s other border is with Israel. So Plan B is to take the ferry from southern Turkey to Cyprus and attempt to take a ferry to either Lebanon, Israel or Egypt
Cyprus to Lebanon


There is hearsay to confirm that there is a car ferry from Cyprus to Lebanon. It is the shortest route, however, the border between Lebanon and Israel (Lebanon is bordered by Israel, Syria and the Mediterranean) is presently closed to all but security personnel. -Anyone travelling to Lebanon should keep themselves well informed and closely monitor political and security developments- The Foreign Office


Plan C
Cyprus to Israel


The car ferry between these two countries closed about five years ago and at the moment of writing remains so. (Plan C.1 is to find a home for Austin in Cyprus and take the passenger ferry to Israel which is at the moment still open)


Plan D
Cyprus to Egypt.


No one seems to be able to tell me whether there is a ferry here, but regardless, as of today the border between Egypt and Isreal is closed.- On 28 May 2011 the Rafah crossing between Egypt and Gaza was re-opened to people but not goods-Foreign Office






So as the world goes a little more bonkers everyday I’m left with only one way of making overland/sea to my goal in Jordan. But with Gaddafi about to fall (hopefully) the world may turn its attention on Syria and who knows where that may end up?

Don’t forget there are loads of Galleries over at the Facebook page, just click like.


Have a good week folks
And again soz if there are any typos.


Cheers Matt

How do you solve a problem like Damascus?

 The Blue Mosque, Istanbul. from the Silk Road gallery. Photo Matthew Button

In the week that saw me finally get hold of a ferry ticket to Belgium we have a major problem at the very opposite end of the road.

As if to act as a counterbalance to Belgium's' stability and uniformity (something that gets mocked as the Milton Keynes of Europe) we have the anarchy that is Syria in 2011. I've never been to Syria and if my passage through Iran (see Silk Road Portfolio) has taught me anything about the world it is that we shouldn't judge people by the government that rules them.  

In the original trip, my parent's hopes of reaching Aqaba were scuppered by the Six Day War. Only the year before it very nearly started the Third World War (that and the Mudurnu Valley earthquake in Turkey) therefore it seems rather fitting that the reason I presently cannot get to Aqaba either is Syria. So while I planned to repeat, copy and experience as much of the 60's feel of the trip as possible I haven't expected the same barriers to crop up quite so identically.

Today, as we turn on the news, the BBC is reporting that there are presently ten thousand refugees on the Turkish/Syrian border as things escalate. This isn't the right place to go into the why's and whats of the present situation (maybe a later blog), but on a very selfish level I'm a little stuck. The only other land route into Jordan would be through eastern Turkey into Kurdistan/Northern Iraq, then travel the length of Iraq before re-entering through eastern Jordan. Not a great, or even realistic, decision. It's not a Top Gear Christmas special after all. 

Foreign Office -"We advise against all travel to the whole of Syria; British nationals in Syria should leave now by commercial means".
Lonely Planet went with -"governments are advising their citizens against all travel to the country".
and TripAdvisor- "We advise against all travel to the Syrian Arab Republic..."

So how the hell an I going to get to Jordan?
Answers on a postcard please. 

Have a good week folks

Cheers Matt

matthewbutton.co.uk

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