Just one shot

From the moment Austin and I set out we knew we only had a single shot at getting to Jordan. As you folks know from older blogs the political situation in the Middle East has been even more troublesome than during my parents trip. I certainly have chosen the most inappropriate time to visit the region; the fallout for the Iraq War, the Syrian Uprising and the Arab Spring were already issues before Austin pulled out of the driveway.

During the weeks we trundled happily south and eastwards Israel and Egypt fell out seriously as the former shot three Egyptian soldiers at the border. As Austin and I began a tour of Cypriot garages the Turkish prime minister Recep Tayip Erdogan, who was angered by Israels attack on shipping visited the new Post-Arab Spring regime in Egypt and as a result, for the time being the chances of crossing from Egypt into Israel, and ultimately Jordan, were scuppered. This week has seen Lebanon make it's formal bid at the UN to be recognized as a country which has has upset the Israelis no end.

But ultimately what stopped us from going any further was the troubles between Northern (Turkish) Cyprus and (Southern) Cyprus. In 1974 Turkey sent it's troops onto Cypriot soil after a Greek backed coup (The Greek Junta had taken power in Athens the year that mum and dad passed through, 1967). The fallout is still deeply felt through the island and as a result Northern Cyprus state is only recognized by the Turkish government. So technically Austin and I had entered through an illegal port and as a consequence would have to exit through that same point. We could not in any shape or form leave Cyprus and head to Israel, nor could I leave Austin and take a passenger ferry or fly. We would have to leave and return to the north. 

Once there we couldn't travel to anywhere but back to Turkey. And once there we could only exit back into Greece (or Hungry or Armenia, or Georgia). 

Sorry if it's complicated, but it took weeks of searching, calling and talking to people to get all this information. Eventually when the last email came in to say that in no uncertain terms could Austin and I leave Cyprus by any other means than back into the north, it was time to make some decisions. And to be honest these issues have been ongoing for the last fifty years, since Dad and Mum were here, there were very unlikely to change in the next month (especially with Tony Blair sticking his beak in) so sadly Austin and I have decided to return home to the UK and get on with the hard bit- writing the book. 

Thanks for all the support and love from everyone. 

The blogs will continue so stay tuned in and please stay in touch.

Have a good week folks

And again soz if there are any typos.

Cheers Matt

Chameleon Road- Cyprus

If you want an exercise in red tape and inefficacy then take the ferry from mainland Turkey to Northern (Turkish) Cyprus. Leaving Tascu on the southern coast of Turkey the plan was to take the overnight ferry to Cyprus and from there tackle the issue of getting to Jordan from another angle.

I’ll save you the details but here’s the facts- a five hour trip became a 15 hour marathon. Sailing was at 24:00 but we eventually set off at 3:30. I had to visit and hand over cash to a total of twelve different officials before Austin and I could be on our way. By the time we pulled out of the car park and on the disputed soil of Northern Cyprus we were both going bonkers in the heat.

 

Still there were consolations, Nic was coming out to spend 10 days with me and I was really looking forward to it. Originally I should have already tackled Jordan and she was to meet me on the way back. From Cyprus we planned to take a leisurely drive back up to Istanbul together. But timing wasn’t the only issue; Austin had something to say too.

Austin for the most part has been good as gold. Like me he has had a few sniffles and coughs and not everything works but something about Cyprus did not agree with him from the moment we arrived. For almost the whole of the first week Nic was here Austin was in one garage or another. They’d get one thing fixed and something else would go wrong. In the end he had a new dynamo, a new coil, some new wiring and new points put in.

Eventually Austin limped out of the garage and the three of us headed out along the Karpaz Peninsular for a little R and R. The wilds of Karpaz are famous throughout the island and we were looking forward to the long three hour drive down to the point. Nic had a drive of Austin and for the first time I was able to sit back and be a passenger. The sun bleached world of Northern Cyprus drifted passed as the coastline dipped in and out of the ocean, each time it left a beautiful azure cove. We spent a couple of days swimming and driving about dusty trails finding wild donkeys, chameleons and little owls. Not to mention turtles (if you want to know more about these wonderful creatures have a look at Nic's Zoology Blog).

Eventually it was time to head south on the next step of the mission. As I hadn't had any luck getting into Syria the only other choice was to attempt to take the ferry from (Southern) Cyprus to Israel and tackle Jordan from there. For those of you who aren't aware Northern Cyprus and Cyprus don't get on, in fact the UN had to step in and now there is a permanent collection of Blue-and-Whites stationed on the buffer zone that runs the length of the island.

Crossing from the North into the South was supposed to be easy, in reality the Cypriots pulled us aside and went through the paperwork and car with a fine tooth comb. An hour later not only had they driven me nearly insane but they gave us a parting gift- Austin and I could ONLY leave the island by returning to the North and exiting back into Turkey. If true then we were in a whole heap of trouble.

We had been invited to stay with Russell and his lovely wife Jane (and their friends Paul and Karen) at their place. We had meet them up in the north when they jumped in and gave Austin a bump start when he was having one of his Cyprus wobbles. They adopted us; in fact they were so kind and generous that I even began to put weight on again.

For the first time in ages I was forced to relax and stay still. Austin was working fine, we had sent out a few emails trying to confirm the next step and while I waited for the replies it was time to digest another delicious fish meze while floating around their pool in the sun....(to be cont.)

There's a new Cyprus gallery over at the Facebook page.
Have a good week folks
And again soz if there are any typos.
Cheers Matt

Lost In Cappadocia

Hoopoes, invisible in the bleached grass, lifted into the air and glided away as I startled each of them as I walked through the sun filled Ihlara Valley. Here in this most perfect of gorges I stopped and took a moment to breathe and relax.

For weeks Austin and I have been barrelling across the continent heading ever south and east. With the exception of a pause to dry out in Slovenia, we have kept on pushing through the miles. Istanbul and Bursa had been a tough section, tougher than I could have imagined, but as we passed mum and dad’s finish line there was a greater freedom to step away from the restraints of their original mission.

The view from Kirk Damalti Kilisesi (St. Georges Church)

Pulling into the dusty car park of the Piri Pension, in the even dustier village of Selime, I had no idea of the beauty and serenity that was hidden only metres away. 24 hours later I sat high in the cliff face in the Kirk Damalti Kilisesi (St George's Church), an ancient Byzantine church carved directly into the rock, happy, excited and yet strangely peaceful. Above me, eagles soared high in hot thermals and rock lizards dashed about arguing over territory at the mouth of the cave. Below, the stream wandered slowly and absent-mindedly through the twisted willows and larches. A more beautiful and peaceful place I have never seen before. Before I set out, during the whirlwind of chaos that I called planning, a mate had insisted that I take the time to 'smell the roses' during the trip. I had made an effort to pause and appreciate what I was lucky enough to be doing but in the Ilhara valley, with its wonderful wildlife and fascinating history I had the best day of the trip so far. By the time I went to bed my face hurt from smiling.

Sumbullu Kilise, Rock churches in  Ilhara Valley

A few days later Austin and I rolled eventfully into Goreme, the centre of all fun and activities in Cappadocia. If you have ever taken a moment to look at a brochure or site dedicated to Turkey then you will have seen Goreme and its fairy chimneys- fluted rock formations that for centuries have been the homes of peasants and priests alike. And, as Austin drove around the corner and began to wind down through the twists and turns, and above all steep, roads of Goreme, he chose this excellent moment for his brakes to die. So with a racing heart rate, my fist clutching the handbrake and in second gear we made our slow and terrifying way to the valley floor then up the other side to Kaya camping.

The View of Cappadoica from Kaya Camping

For ten days, while I sat out the tail end of Ramazan (Turkish Muslim holiday) and Beyram(another Turkish holiday), I would be awoken, just after dawn, by the dragon yawns of burners filling hot air balloons and by the time I had crawled out of my sleeping bag and rustled up a cup of tea the balloons began to rise out of the valleys and fill the skies. Then for an hour or so I would watch the slow parade of balloons pass along the valleys like a shoal of ambling jellyfish and by the time the last one disappeared it was time for breakfast.

While the mornings were filled with balloon gazing, the evenings were spent eating with Roger and Susan and Michael and Angela. Angela and Susan whipped up a storm every night and I hadn't eaten like that since I had left home, in fact, I think I started to put weight back on again. But as wonderful and much needed as this was sooner or later I was going to have to face the brakes problem.

The first mechanic told me to take out the offending part and drive to him with it, where he would judge whether he had the correct part and then we would take it from there! Yeah, okay, time for another mechanic. So with a kick up the bum from Roger and Susan we jumped in Austin and handbrake in hand, headed to the next village to find someone else to help. Thirty minutes later Austin had a stopping distance somewhere less than fatal and we were off back to the campsite and yet another fantastic Angela/Susan dinner.

As Susan told her family on Skype-today I have had two rides in an Austin Cambridge; once without brakes and once with.

So much to tell and so little space, off to Cyprus…
There a new Cappadocia gallery over at the Facebook page.


Have a good week folks
And again soz if there are any typos.
Cheers Matt